Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.
The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has made the proprietors completely shocked.
“I’m completely shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble place securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.
This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.
Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender consistency.
The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.
The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.
Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.
“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.
Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.
This restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.
A seasoned journalist with a passion for logistics and postal industry trends, delivering accurate and timely news.